8/20/20; mile: 1,848; elevation: 5,945 ft.
First off, the mileage for today is higher than I actually hiked. I walked the Crater Lake alternate route, which is shorter than the “normal” PCT route through this area.
I met some new hikers last night in the designated PCT campground. Which is to say, this is no-man’s land in the bushes off of the main track to not bother the paying campers. But we still have access to the toilets, sinks and water spigots. Yeah, we’re special. While setting up my tent, I met some new-to-me NOBO hikers. Once I said, “Savior”, they got all giddy. “Oh, you’re friends with Mark and Mia!” I find out those two have been spending a lot of time doing additional trail angel work after I left the state. My Dog that is so awesome. Before my hike, they didn’t know what being a trail angel is. Now look at them. They have been out helping so many hikers, it brings tears to my eyes just thinking about it. You all don’t appreciate trail angels until you’ve encountered one “in the wild”.
My morning started with climbs, including backtracking to the highway to get back to the trailhead where I left the trail yesterday. My early start was inspired by the thought of seeing Crater Lake in morning light and enjoying it with some real coffee from the cafe at the rim. Maybe even some baked goods to go with it….
Nope. Fuck my dreams due to Covid. So, fuck you, Covid. And then there’s Crater Lake. …
I’ve never been here. The view, the first sight….is just indescribable. Add in the work, effort and pain to WALK here to see it; just adds to the value of what my eyes behold. All thoughts of food, coffee, family, friends….just takes a back seat. This is one of the most uniquely spectacular sights I’ve had on this trip. And I’ll spend the rest of the morning seeing it from different viewpoints. None of them get old. The coup de grace is the small climb up to the lookout tower on the western rim. By this point, the PCT alternate trail parallels the popular tourist road, so there are a lot more people about. It’s weird for me to be around so many non-thru hikers….muggles so to speak. Climbing up the slope, none of them pass me…I pass them all. Yet, some are still brave enough to ask about why the fuck did I bring a backpack all the way up to here from the parking lot….The righteousness of a thru-hiker near trailheads can be annoying. My run down the same trail is just as pretentious. I feel strong. I AM strong. Because I can.
After the lookout, the trail mostly veers away from the crater rim and continues north. At this point I meet a father and son section hiking NOBO. The first hikers I’ve actually met on trail ( not in towns or campgrounds) going my way. I’ll meet them again later at another trailhead (me looking for goodies, they for their stashed water cache). The terrain is open at first, then gradually turns to trees. This is a new type of landscape. The forest is flat, the trees are a little more spread out, the trail tread is dusty.
After crossing Highway 138, I was blessed to find trail magic being provided by Freshly Ground. He’s normally a AT (Appalachian Trail) guy, but with Covid restrictions being even worse back east, he decided to come to the left coast to support some SOBO’s. And maybe one or two NOBO’s as well if their paths should cross. This guy knows how to throw out trail magic. I was “late” for dinner, but free tacos (with my own tortillas) works just fine for me, thank you! And then I met Six Pack…and his seeing eye dog. Yup, somehow this blind guy is able to navigate, avoid obstacles, cross streams and highways with just his dog guiding him on trail. Now I am truly humbled. THAT is determination.
I cowboy camp, prep my stove and breakfast, and tell myself I’ll be up and gone even before Freshly Ground has coffee ready. I’m feeling back to my old self and ready to attack tomorrow. Who wulda thunk?
Savior out.
Not only an incredibly inspiring view but you got to meet an incredible human in Six Pack, sounds like was a pretty do day.
I started reading your blog after you posted about it on ADVrider a while ago. Nice job! Hope you keep updating, I’ve only hiked sections of the PCT but a through hike is very intriguing.