7/10/20; mile: 1,102; elevation: 7,792 ft.
As is typical for us thru hikers, the rest of the world doesn’t rise as early as us, so the crowd around Showers Lake didn’t seem nearly as bothersome as last night. Just lots of quiet tents scattered about. Today was resupply and town day(s) for most other hikers as they get off the trail at Echo Lake and head to South Lake Tahoe. Me? I’ll continue on.
As Vader and I hike together, the terrain is a lot of the same. Granite boulders, stunted trees and occasional views into canyons. But the closer we get to Echo Pass (and Highway 50) we finally get our first glimpses of Lake Tahoe. And with that, we also get cell reception again. With the coming town stop, most hikers are chomping at the bit to get to the parking lot at the Echo Lake Chalet where there is food, beer and potential rides into town. As such, Vader and I ended up hiking apart for the first time since leaving Sonora Pass. And I end up getting kind of lost as there are a lot of user created trails in the area. I’m generally going the right way, just a couple of hundred feet off the real trail. At the parking lot for the trailhead at Highway 50, we’re met by a couple of women doing surveys of hikers on the Tahoe Rim Trail. For the second time on this trip, I show my PCT permit (still valid, thank you very much).
The Chalet is annoyingly still uphill, so we have to earn this last little bit. And it’s kinda warm. The sound of cars is disconcerting: That means people. And holy shit are there a lot of people. The parking lot is packed. There’s a ranger checking day-use and weekend permits. I guess we thru hikers have a “look”, so we’re not asked to show our permits. At the Chalet, I meet two new hikers: Jelly Bean and Lost and Found. We all sit in the shade next to the parking lot enjoying our beers and snacks while we discuss each others’ plans. Jelly Bean and Lost and Found our getting back on trail today, while Vader (and others) are going into town.
Again, I’m hit with a little melancholy as I get ready to head out into the heat, leaving Vader behind. I’m also not excited to be out hiking with all of these weekenders (it’s Friday). This is a very popular area, and even more so on a weekend (though the virus seems to have changed people’s work schedules quite a bit). I figure I just need to hike further and faster than the herds to get some peace and quiet (and a decent camp spot). So, only ten more miles to go today….
The first part of this trail goes along the shore of Echo Lake. The trail is really rocky, really exposed and really crowded. The lake down below is quite tempting, but mostly not accessible. Seeing kayaker and their dog swimming next to them makes me jealous. It’s not until the northern end of the lake where there is easy lake access where the water taxi would land in a normal year. And a great spot to take a break, “wash” some clothes and soak my feet.
After the break, the trail leaves lake views and goes through trees. It’s a well-trodden path, including all of the signs of use like trash. And then there’s Lake Aloha. For many, this is considered a beautiful camping spot. I’m seeing an overcrowded, overused wasteland. I’m just not feeling it. My feet hurt, it’s hot, it’s getting late and I don’t really feel like being around all of these people. And there’s more coming.
At least I’m done with the climbing for day. I get to my camping area at Susie Lake with plenty of daylight left. Now finding a spot to camp is more difficult. Though 10 miles from the trailhead, it’s still a popular spot. I find a spot not far from the lake and with enough breeze to keep the mosquitoes at bay (as well as keep me cool). The lakeside eating is pleasant as the sun sets. While I can see a couple of people camping around the lake, none are very close. It’s quiet. Not a bad end to the day.
Savior out.
Another good update….